Gutter and Downspout Repairs Childproofing A Home Mold- What is it? Efflorescence Heat Pumps: Are They Right for Your Home? Preventing Roof Leaks Lighting: Ways to Save Energy Dollars Thermostats: Buying, Replacing, Repairing Septic Tank Care Air Cleaners: Measuring Their Effectiveness Mulching Mowers Decks: Eliminating Discolorations Decks: A Clean Deck Lasts Longer Silence a Squeaky Floor Tired of running out of hot water? New House Warranties: What You Should Know

Gutter and Downspout Repairs

In a short period of time, gutters can become clogged with leaves and other debris. It is a good idea to inspect and, if needed, clean them in both spring and fall. You also may have to loosen dirt that has blown into the gutters and scrub them with a stiff brush. A heavy stream of water from a garden hose will clear material that may be stuck in the downspouts The slope of gutters may also need to be adjusted from time to time. This is important so the water runs toward the downspout instead of overflowing the gutter, causing damage to the roof decking. Run water into the gutters, and if they drain slowly, reposition them so that they slope toward the downspouts at a rate of 1 inch for every 20 feet. Also check downspouts for rust, flaking or peeling paint, leaks, and that they are affixed tightly to the structure. While you are at it, check the soffit and fascia boards for rot or other damage. If replacement is needed, replace with lumber treated with wood preservative and finished to match the other boards. To keep leaves and roof debris from clogging your gutters and downspouts, have one of the numerous gutter covers installed that channels water into the gutter but does not allow leaves to enter. Some companies offer to clean your gutters if they ever clog if you have their gutter covers installed. When water overflows the gutters, it can damage siding, roofing, and can even cause foundation problems. The secret is to keep them free of debris so they don't clog in the first place.

Childproofing A Home

Small children seem to have an insatiable appetite for exploring, with little or no understanding of danger. If you have an active infant or toddler, you know that these traits can often lead to trouble. Statistics show that home accidents account for more children's injuries and fatalities than all childhood diseases combined. Here are a few steps you can take to insure your children's safety. Coupled with your own awareness and constant vigilance, these procedures might help you coach your kids through childhood without any heart-wringing emergency room visits. The specialized hardware shown can be purchased at hardware stores, building supply dealers, and children's specialty stores. Be sure to: Lock up all poisons and dangerous objects. Eliminate clutter and store prized possessions out of children’s reach. Turn down your water temperature to a maximum of 120 degrees. Put sleeves on doorknobs to bar toddlers from dangerous areas. Also, utilize door and window locks. However, be sure older children can get them open in an emergency. Discuss emergency escape routes and procedures with all family members. Keep escape ladders near second-story emergency exits. Put emergency numbers on or next to the phone, where family members and babysitters can find them. For the whole family's safety, install a smoke detector on each floor of your house, adjacent to bedrooms, in any stairwell, and in living/dining area. Carbon Monoxide detectors are also essential. Replace low-lying outlet covers with plastic outlet plug guards. Check crib bar spacing. It should be no greater than 2 3/8". Check all baby gear to insure it meets the standards set by the Consumer Product Safety Commission. For more information, write: Consumer Product Safety Commission, Washington, D.C. 20207). Install childproof latches on cabinet doors and drawers, especially those containing dangerous or fragile objects. Install baby gates at doorways where needed, and at the top and bottom of stairways. Pad sharp furniture, counter edges, and fireplaces with foam tape or a similar padding device. Enclose open deck railings with welded wire mesh. It can be cut with tin snips, nailed or stapled in place, and then the sharp ends filed off. Acrylic sheets can be substituted for interior railings. Swimming pools and other dangerous areas need fencing that is at least 4 feet high (5 feet is preferred). Be sure to install a self-closing, self-latching gate. Check outdoor play equipment. Cut off protruding bolts, tighten loose nuts, put non-slip coating on slippery slide steps, replace hard swing seats with soft material, provide soft ground cover, and anchor support legs. Secure curtain cords to tie-down or cleat on wall. In the past few years, the media has highly publicized cases of children accidentally hanging themselves on certain types of shade and curtain cords. Install door or window safety locks/hardware (older children must be able to open).

Mold is also known as fungi. It is neither a plant nor animal and comes in many forms, such as yeast, molds mushrooms, puffballs, etc. There are over 20,000 species of mold and it can be found almost anywhere. Mold needs three environmental factors to grow: (1) a good nutrient base, (2) a temperature range between 40-100 degrees (F), and (3) a moisture source. It grows by producing tiny spores in the air. Inhaling these spores can lead to a variety of health problems. Stachybotrys Chartarum is one of the most dangerous molds and has received significant media coverage lately. It is a very dark and toxic mold and can cause severe health problems However, according to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), these cases are rare and most people will only experience slight discomfort such as a mild headache or nausea. Mold can be eliminated in most cases by soaking the area with a water/bleach solution in a 10:1 ratio. Be aware that mold growth can be concealed in wall cavities, ducts, behind wallpaper, and in carpet. If any of these conditions exist in your home, you may need professional help. Mold should not be confused with Efflorescence, which is a white powdery substance sometimes found on damp masonry walls. Efflorescence will be discussed in detail next week.

Efflorescence

The white crystalline or powdery substance that is sometimes found on basement walls is called Efflorescence. Efflorescence a mineral salt left behind as moisture pushes through the wall and evaporates into the interior of the home. Efflorescence is a common problem, which, for the most part, is cosmetic. It is sometimes mistakenly identified as mold or mildew and treated ineffectively with a bleach solution. Efflorescence can occur on concrete as well as brick or masonry surfaces. Very rarely does efflorescence cause structural problems. Efflorescence will in many cases stop on its own. The efflorescence can cease if the supply of soluble salt material in the bricks or mortar becomes exhausted, or the moisture that pushes theses salts through the mortar diminish. You can sometimes remove the dried deposits with a stiff brush. Water may wash the salts from the wall. However, this process can sometimes dissolve the salts and cause them to soak back into the wall. You may have to use a very weak solution of muriatic acid. Only attempt this method if you know that the acid will work effectively on the type of salt present. Acid solutions can cause severe burns to skin and eyes. If you attempt to try this yourself, be certain to wear complete protective gear. If Efflorescence is widespread or returns regularly, it may indicate a moisture problem on the exterior of the wall. This might be a good time to consult a foundation expert.

Heat Pumps: Are They Right for Your Home?

Did you know you can extract heat from chilly outside air and use it to heat your house? This feat is performed by the magic of a heat pump--an appliance that uses refrigeration technology rather than fuel combustion to provide warmth and cooling. Whether or not a heat pump will save you money on energy bills depends on a number of factors, including the type of fuel prevalent in your area, your climate, and the amount of insulation and other energy-efficient features built into your home. According to Richard Jarvis, Technical Specialist with the National Appropriate Technology Assistance Service (NATAS), "If you have natural gas available, it probably makes sense for you to use it for heating and cooling with a conventional air-conditioning system." Natural gas is a more efficient, less expensive fuel than electricity, needed for heat pumps. But in the Northeast or other regions where fuel-oil or resistance-electrical heat is more the norm, a heat pump can realize substantial savings. Although electrical-resistance heating is much less expensive to install than a heat pump, the heat pump can deliver 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times more heat with the same amount of energy, depending on climate, the house, and the particular system. Heat pumps are most effective at saving energy when in the heating mode. The problem with an air-source heat pump in a cold climate, however, is that your household needs more heat as the temperature outside goes down-- but the heat pump works less efficiently at lower outdoor temperatures. Below a temperature known as the "balance point," normally from 30 to 45º F, supplementary heat is required--and that means expensive electrical-resistance heating kicks in. The right way to decide the most appropriate form of heating and cooling for your home is to do an economic analysis, based on a system's purchase cost and efficiency, the cost of your fuel and your home's heating/cooling load requirements. NATAS has a toll-free number to offer this type of assistance: 1-800-428-2525 (in Montana, 1-800-428-1718). Request their "Energy Cost Index Chart" and "Life Cycle Cost Analysis" brochure.

Preventing Roof Leaks

Roof restoration usually means a contractor power washes the roof, replaces missing or deteriorated wood shakes and applies a preservative oil treatment. The most important part of preventing roof leaks is replacing the damaged or missing roofing. Preservative oil treatments (sealants) can prolong the life of a wood shake roof if the application is repeated at appropriate intervals throughout the life of a roof. This should be started when the roof is three to six years old. However, it will not "repair" cracked or curling shakes. They will need to be replaced to maintain the roof's integrity. Remember that after replacing cracked, missing or curling wood shakes throughout the roof, the new shakes are lighter in color and can stand out like polka dots. Applying a preservative oil treatment can help blend the new shakes in with older ones and make the roof look more attractive. This is especially important when trying to sell the house.

Lighting: Ways to Save Energy Dollars

If you are looking for ways to save money in today’s difficult economic times, consider some of these ideas for trimming your electric bill: As Mom always said-Turn of the lights! You will be amazed at the energy saved by simply turning off lights in unoccupied rooms. Convert standard incandescent light bulbs to highly efficient compact fluorescents. Compact fluorescents use 70-75% less energy to produce the same amount of light as a standard incandescent bulb. Simply, a 20-watt compact fluorescent will give you about the same light as a conventional 60-watt incandescent. These fluorescent bulbs cost more than conventional bulbs. However, they last up to thirteen times longer, which combined with the energy savings, will save you money in the long run. Move natural light further into rooms. Open shades and blinds. Louvers and operable blinds can direct light, and can even bounce light off of the ceiling. Any light-toned surfaces, including walls, ceilings and floors, will reflect light. Look for wall paints that have high reflectance values (ask your paint dealer) and floor coverings that are light in color.

Thermostats: Buying, Replacing, Repairing

Beyond basic shelter, one of the most important jobs of a house is to provide a comfortable environment. But, because the human body is very sensitive to heat gain and heat loss, comfort can be elusive. In the quest to capture it, we fit houses with heating and cooling systems, insulation, efficient windows, weatherstripping, ventilation, and other features meant to control unwanted heat loss and heat gain. One of the most important parts of a home's comfort system is a thermostat. more.

Septic Tank Care

It pays to take care of your septic tank. When maintained improperly, the necessary bacteria in the system can be destroyed, causing the biological machine to shut down. Then, sludge builds up and is pushed into the drainfield where it clogs up the system. Before you know it, you have a sewage backup and a major headache. The tank can be pumped out but the drainfield cannot. After several tank pumpings on a too-frequent basis, you may discover that you have to install a new septic system at the cost of several thousand dollars. With proper care, a system should last more than 20 years. Have your tank inspected by a septic tank professional every three to five years-more frequently if your family uses a lot of water and/or a garbage disposer. You can reduce the strain on your septic system by using less water and staggering showers, clothes washing, bathing and other heavy usage.

Air Cleaners: Measuring Their Effectiveness

An air cleaner's effectiveness is measured by how thoroughly it captures particles and the amount of air it can process in a given period of time. It's only as good as its ability to catch particles of all sizes and process enough air to make a difference. The effectiveness of a filter is tested and given ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-conditioning Engineers) ratings. The first rating, Initial Staining Dirt Efficiency, is a critical measurement of how well the filter removes microscopic staining particles such as tobacco tar, allergens and grease. The second rating, Average Arrestance Test, refers to the percentage of ordinary dust, hair, lint and other large-particulate matter removed. When comparing ratings, it's important to know which of these two is being listed. The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) certifies some portable air cleaners with a Clean Air Delivery Rate (CADR). This measures how many cubic feet per minute (CFM) of air is cleared of a certain size particle. Three particle sizes are rated: smoke (minute), dust (medium) and pollen (large). The higher the CADR rating, the less time the unit needs to remove a given quantity of certain particles from a specified room size. AHAM-certified models are marked with CADR data.

Mulching Mowers

Everyone wants to do something good for the environment, and the new breed of yard equipment that allows you to recycle debris right in your own backyard makes it easy. If your local garbage man doesn't accept lawn clippings or leaves anymore, these new tools will help you avoid paying extra fees for disposal. Of course, the idea behind recycling is that your lawn clippings and leaves are not debris at all, but a valuable organic resource that should be put back into the soil to help build a healthy lawn and garden. The most popular piece of lawn-care equipment is the walk-behind mower. More than 85 percent are now labeled as "mulching mowers" to respond to the public's environmental concerns. Mulching mowers--like food processors for your lawn--use a special blade and enclosed deck to slice up your grass clippings (and dried leaves) numerous times before depositing them back deep into the turf, where they decompose in a few days. The result, if conditions are right and the mower is designed well, is a clean, vacuumed appearance without any unsightly clumps or hedgerows of grass. And don't worry about creating thatch. Thatch is not made up of dead grass blades left on the lawn, but excess surface roots caused by over watering and over fertilizing. Using a mulching mower saves in several ways. It saves time, since you don't have to repeatedly stop the mower to empty and reattach the bag. It saves money, since the nitrogen in the clippings fertilizes the lawn, reducing the amount of supplemental fertilizer you have to apply. And it leaves more room in your local landfill for real garbage.

Decks: Eliminating Discolorations

Is your wood deck stained or discolored? Several products are available for dealing with these stains and related problems. Commercially-available powder or liquid-concentrates have a base of non-chlorine bleach or oxalic acid; a detergent may be part of the formula. Bleach-based products eliminate mildew, acid-based materials handle graying and stains. Some products may darken woods such as redwood and cedar, so be sure to test any material in an inconspicuous place. Always wear rubber gloves, goggles, and old clothes when working with these chemicals and follow the directions explicitly. Caution: Never mix detergent containing ammonia with household bleach; the resulting fumes can be highly toxic.

Decks: A Clean Deck Lasts Longer

Keeping a wood deck clean is a good way to avoid costly maintenance later. Debris that clogs the spaces between deck boards traps moisture, encouraging mildew and rot. Blast out the debris, using a powerful nozzle on a garden hose, then push out remaining debris with a putty knife or an old handsaw. Thoroughly scrub the surface with a sudsy mixture of water and laundry detergent, using a stiff fiber brush on a long handle. Work in small areas and rinse periodically. This may be all it takes to return much of the wood's natural tone.

Silence a Squeaky Floor

Problem Squeaks are caused by wood rubbing against wood or wood rubbing against nails in a floor that has loosened. If you can get to your floor from a basement or crawlspace, most homeowners should be able to repair a squeak easily with the following quick fix: Solution While you are standing under the area that is causing the problem, have someone walk across the floor so you can locate the exact location of the squeak. Coat a shim with wood glue and tap it lightly into the space between joist and floor, making sure that you don't raise the floor further by pushing it in too far.

Tired of running out of hot water?

Maybe it's time for a water heater that has a greater capacity. But how "big" should it be? Though the term "capacity" refers to a tank's size, the real capacity of a water heater is a result of two factors: storage and recovery time (how quickly it can heat a tankful of water). Conventional water heaters range in tank size from 30 to 120 gallons; the most common sizes are from 40 to 75 gallons. (Short "lowboy" models are available in smaller sizes.) It's important to match size to your family's needs. If you get a tank that's too small, you'll frequently find the water cooling down just about the time you lather up in the shower. On the other hand, if you buy one that's too large, you'll be paying more than necessary to keep the tank heated. Needs can typically be measured by the number of bathrooms in the house, though some circumstances can skew these standards-- a laundry-heavy family with small children or a house with an especially large bathtub, for example. Obviously, a couple living in a large house or a large family living in a small house require adjusting the figures. Minimum size unit for a 1-bathroom house should be 30 or 40 gallons, in either gas or electric. For a 1 1/2-bath house, 40 gallons is minimum. For a 2- to 3 1/2-bath house, choose a 50-gallon gas heater or a 66- to 80-gallon electric one (because electric water heaters take longer to heat water, large tanks should be bigger than their gas-fired counterparts). For a large, 4-bath house or a home with an extra-large bathtub, get a 75-gallon gas heater or a 120-gallon electric heater. Recovery of gas-fired water heaters is a function of the Btu input and overall efficiency. Input ranges from about 32,000 on a 30-gallon unit to 88,000 on a 100-gallon tank. A common range is 34,000 Btus on a 40-gallon tank and 36,000 Btus on a 50-gallon tank. The higher the Btu input and efficiency, the faster the recovery. Electric water heaters typically have one 5500-watt or two 4500-watt elements. Of course, two higher kilowatt elements heat much faster than one lower-wattage element. Both gas and electric water heaters are rated by the number of gallons they can raise 90 degrees F in one hour. Most electric ones are rated from 20 to 25 gallons per hour; many gas units can recover more than a full tank-- a high-recovery 50-gallon Rheem gas model can recover up to 81 gallons per hour. When buying a high-Btu gas model, be aware that it may require a 4-inch flue rather than the standard 3-inch flue that probably currently exists in your house.

New House Warranties: What You Should Know

Most new homes are protected by a 1-year warranty on defects in materials and workmanship, though a warranty is not required by law. Under a new house warranty, the builder is obliged to repair items when contacted (usually in writing) by the homeowner. Ask about the new house warranty before buying and be sure to get a signed warranty document. In addition, be sure you receive a package with product warranties for the roof, appliances, etc. that are offered by the various manufacturers of your home's materials. If something goes wrong with these parts of your home, you must contact the manufacturer, not the builder. Some builders offer an extended new-house warranty, sometimes called an "insured warranty". This generally covers any systems, plumbing and electrical for example, for a 2-year period. It may also guarantee the structure for up to 10 years. Insured warranties are actually issued by an insurance company. This way your home is covered even if the builder goes out of business.